Thursday, February 18, 2016

Lisbon, Portugal


Aflama district sweeping down to the Tagus River


Portugal has been a poor cousin to Spain when it comes to tourism. Similar in history, language, climate and culture, Portugal has not been as popular a tourist destination as Spain. Beautiful beaches, history, architectecture and cuisine, Portugal has it all.

The little country on the Iberian peninsula has been at the forefront of discovery in an era gone by. They conquered the Indian and the Atlantic Oceans and were the first to create a sea route between the east and the west. Vasco da Gama traveled east to India while Columbus discovered the Americas. The Japanese "Arigato" and Tempura have their origin in Portugal. They have contributed much more to the modern world than is spoken about.

Lisbon, as with any city in Europe, is a mixture of beauty and history. It is one of the oldest cities in Europe and boasts of castles, monasteries, churches and quaint neighbourhoods. 

Some interesting spots around town and a bit further away...


The Sé Cathedral


The Sé Cathedral with the Tram No 12

Built in the 12th-13th centuries over a Mosque indicating Reconquista, Sé Cathedral is an iconic structure in Lisbon. It has seen baptism, weddings and funerals of Portugal nobility. Located at the start of the Alfama district, it is served by 2 very interesting routes of trams - 12 and 15. Alfama, a district with narrow streets and alleys, the trams squeeze through them ferrying passengers from different heights in the district to the flat areas of Lisbon and vice versa. This route also passes along a few different tourist spots and also gives tourists a tour of the Baixa and Alfama districts. Some of the popular views over Lisbon can be found from the Alfama district.



Rua Augusta Arch and Praça do Comércio



Rua Augusta Arch and Praça do Comércio


The Rua Augusta Arch situated on the northern side of Praça do Comércio built in the 19th century is Portugal's symbol of recovery from the 1755 earthquake. Visitors can ride an elevator or climb a spiral staircase for some wonderful views from the top.

The Praça do Comércio faces the river Tagus and was built over the former Palace Yard that was destroyed in the 1755 earthquake. The side open to the river used to be a dock from where ships used to sail across oceans to the various Portuguese empires. Now the square has various cafes, shops and a tourist information centre. The tram to Belem also stops in front of the square.

Elevador Santa Justa


A few minutes of walk from the Praça do Comércio brings you to a 19th century elevator that transports you from the lower Baixa district up to Mount Carmo. There's a viewing deck at the top that provides wonderful views over the city. The day we visited Carmo church was closed. It is a beautiful place to visit too!

This elevator also provides an easier access to Bairo Alto and Chiada districts as well.



Views over Alfama from the Santa Justa Elevator on Carmo hill



The São Jorge Castle from Bairro Alto


Somewhere along Bairro Alto/Chiado



Belem


Belem is a neighbourhood that is a little further away from the main town of Lisbon but is one of the most beautiful places in Europe. There are enough things to do here for at the least half a day. Many of the earliest Portuguese travellers set sail from here or are associated with Belem. Most of the structures in this area are related to Portuguese glorious seafaring days. Most of the sights here are extremely crowded as is the tram from central Lisbon. Taxis are a better option to the crowded trams if there are 3-4 people traveling together.

Mosteiro dos Jerónimos 


This monastery is an ornate structure that is the highlight of Belem. This was built using the tax levied on spices that were brought into Portugal in the days when Portuguese travellers ruled the seas. Vasco da Gama spent his last night here before he left for India and the church associated with this monastery is also his final resting place. 

The monastery is very beautifully decorated with arches and carvings in stone. Very often there are large queues to get inside.

The arches and carvings at the monastery

The quadrangle surrounded by arched corridors and beautiful carvings

The church where Vasco Da Gama's is entombed

Padrão dos Descobrimentos


The monument was built as a symbol to honour the Portuguese explorers and the people who helped during the Age of Discovery. It is shaped liked a bow and has the statues of the explorers on the west and the financiers on the east. It also has an elevator to take people up to the top for a view across the town of Belem.



Torre de Belem


The Tower was built as a sort of fort to defend against attacks from the sea but was designed elaborately inspired by designs from North Africa.




The walk from Padrão dos Descobrimentos to the tower along the river Tagus with views over the 25 de Abril Bridge - similar in colour to the Golden Gate bridge but built by the same company that built the Oakland Bay bridge and the Christ the Redeemer (Brazil) inspired Christ the King statue. There are also lovely fountains and gardens between the Monastery and the Monuments.

Pasteis de Belem


Before leaving the Belem area it is time to try the Pasteis de Belem, a custard tart that has been in existence since 1837. Originating in the Monastery, this pastry has many forms and this particular form is called Pasteis de Belem which they claim is different from those found in Lisbon.




Day trips from Lisbon


Sintra


Located just outside Lisbon in the hillsides, Sintra is a charming, picturesque town with slightly cooler temperatures and some interesting sights to visit. It can make a good day trip or even an overnight. Parks, fountains and palaces, there's enough to keep you busy for a few hours or a couple of days.

Fonte Mourisca - A Moor inspired fountain in Sintra

Cabo da Roca


The western most point of mainland Europe, a drive to Cabo da Roca is very pleasant with wonderful views of the sea and charming villages. The coastline here is made up of cliffs and sandy beaches. 

Along the drive to Cabo da Roca



The lighthouse and the cliffs at Cabo da Roca


Practicalities -

Shopping - Cork products are very popular and there are ton of souvenir shops that sell them.

Public transit - A one day travel card is very handy for use on trams and even on the Santa Justa Elevator. 
Food - For a non-pastry diet, there's plenty of options too!
Views - Best free thing to do in Lisbon is taking in the views - there are plenty and all being with "Mirador"

Our 2 day Lisbon trip -

We arrived the evening of our first day to our accommodation at Emporium suites near Lisbon Cathedral. By the time we headed into town it started to pour! After some shopping in Chiada for groceries we headed to the Cathedral and walked up to Mirador del Sol. It was pouring cats and dogs by then and we headed back to our hotel disappointed.

The next morning we headed to Belem on a packed tram from Praça do Comércio. After waiting in line to get in to the Monastery we gaped at it for pretty long. Then we visited the peaceful and charming church associated with the Monastery. 

Walking across the tramstops we made our way to lay claim to the Pasteis de Belem and got some to take away which we had in the park across after shooing away some birds. It was raining off an on.. sometimes they go worse with the wind blowing in from the river. We walked to the Padrão dos Descobrimentos and then to the Tower of Belem. 

The return tram was way too crowded and it was raining heavily following which we decided to ditch the tram for a taxi which we used to get to the Santa Justa Elevator. We rode up and made our way to lunch at Jardim das Cerejas. It was full and we waited our turn. Amazing vegan food at very affordable prices!

We then started our long walk / climb across Chiado and Bairro Alto towards São Pedro de Alcântara - a view point with views of the Sao Jorge castle. After more walking, pasty eating and shopping we reached our hotel and realised it was still bright and the weather was looking right! So off we went again to capture some more pictures of the Cathedral and views from Mirador del Sol. We were treated to a rainbow too! We then took the 12 tram around town before heading back to our accommodation.

The next day we hired a car and drove out of Lisbon to rest of Portugal.

Here's a video from Rick Steves on Lisbon.










Monday, February 1, 2016

Alhambra





Spain - the land of flamenco, bull fights and lovely mediterranean weather. The description does not end there. It has a lovely history - a history as colourful and enchanting as any other country in Europe. Architecture that represents an eclectic mix of styles influenced by the different groups that ruled in it's long history.  Colours that just pop out under the warm, caressing rays of the mediterranean sun. 

Apart from all that I learned about Spain from pictures and movies, the biggest surprise, however, was the history. Spain has been ruled by Arabs, called Moors, for nearly 900 years. They had entered Europe through North Africa and Gibraltar and their strong hold was Andalusia which included parts of Spain and Portugal. They had left behind a rich legacy of castles and forts and even had left behind their influence on the food of the region.

One of the stunning creations of Moors and the Berber kings during their rule of Andalusia is Alhambra located just outside the picturesque town of Granada.


Details on marble, stucco and tiles


Alhambra, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is an impressive citadel with a wonderful garden sitting pretty atop a hill on the outskirts of Granada. Constructed over many centuries, the palace and the gardens are awe inspiring with its various courtyards, Arabic influenced architecture, detailed carvings, gardens, orchards, spell binding views, reflecting pools and fountains. 








The major attractions inside the Alhambra are the Nasrid palaces and the Generalife gardens. The Nasrid palaces were built over different periods of time with some dating as far as the 13th century. Most, if not all parts have been maintained and are still intact. Due to the fragility of this area in the Alhambra, entry times are strictly regulated and bookings for them are sometimes sold out months in advance. 



One of the reflecting pools inside the Nasrid palaces

The Lions courtyard 



Innumerable courtyards with attractive and intelligently designed water fountains, reflective pools, arched windows, marble and stucco carvings and detailing take you around the Nasrid palaces. 

A room with a view - one of the rooms providing views of Granada






Every room in the palace boasts of arched windows with their impeccable views of the lovely town of Granada. 















Intelligently designed lions fountain and recycled water from the basin to flow through the lion's mouth


Water, a scarcity in most of the Arab world is worshipped here. Pretty fountains and pools serve as temples to this highly sought after commodity. For most part of the palace and the gardens the sound of running water accompanies the visitor. Calming and soothing, they add an air of tranquility. 




The Generalife gardens


The Generalife gardens has lovely flowerbeds and orchards accompanied again by fountains and pools. Specially designed balconies with seats provide ravishing views of the surrounding areas and of the Nasrid palaces.


One of the courtyards with lovely foliage, orchards and fountains


The fountains of Generalife gardens

An attractive courtyard in the Generalife gardens
Spain has world class motorways clearly signposted and it is a breeze finding Alhambra. Regular buses ply from the town of Granada, a town worthy of a visit by itself.