Saturday, May 23, 2015

Stunning Santorini






A group of islands in the Cyclades, shaped by an volcanic eruption that formed the stunning caldera. Fira, Oia and Imerovigli are just some of the names tour books throw at you. The views offered by this tiny island of Santorini are much more enchanting than their names. Made of 2 major islands - Thera and Therasia with the volcanic islands of Nea Kameni and Palea Kameni, Santorini is just a dot on the map far away from the mainland and Athens. What distinguishes this island from the zillion other Greek islands and makes it easily identifiable on any poster is the white washed walls with the blue domed churches. The color of the Aegean Sea down below matches the blue of the churches and many doors and fences. Every village on the main island of Thera is stunningly beautiful. There's pretty little to do other than taking in view after view after view to your heart's content.


The blue domed churches of Oia. One every few hundred feet.





The Windmills of Oia (Οία) 


The most photographed areas of Santorini. Most of the time from the old fort. Most of the pictures have two windmills but one was dismantled when we visited (the one on the left). 

Oia is the oldest settlement on the island. It is strikingly beautiful, much more than the crowded village of the Fira. Hotels and restaurants here are much more expensive than Fira or the quieter village of Firostefani. 








The large town of Fira


Bustling with tourists, vehicles and vendors, you can find the most activity on the entire island of Santorini at this village. There are numerous restaurants both with and without views of the Caldera, all offering free wi-fi. The ones with views are usually more than expensive than those without. Buses ply from here to all the other parts of the island. 





The villages of Oia (far left), Imerovigli (center) and Fira (right) from Nea Kameni

Sunset, the magical time of the day, from Oia and Fira


The points that offer the best views of sunset are taken up long before the actual time. Hoardes of tourists, with huge dSLRs or even cell phones mounted on the selfie sticks arrive and grab a front row spot. At Oia it is usually from the Fort or just around it. At Fira, it is end of the town on the way to Firostefani. It is not just the people on terra firma who wait for the sunset. Cruise ships time their departure from Fira port just around the same time and position themselves in the open Caldera for a unhindered view for its passengers. Low lying clouds prevented us from seeing the sun off all the way into the horizon. The little we saw of it was still magical and definitely worth the wait.

The Blue star ferry that serves the islands in Cyclades leaves the Fira port just before sunset.




A cruise ship positioning itself to offer the best view of the sunset in the waters below Oia


The volcanic island of Nea Kameni from Fira at sunset


The volcanic islands of Nea Kameni and Palea Kameni


The islands, bang in the middle of the Caldera, are served by tourist boats from the Fira port. With a variety of tours that take us to 2 or 3 of the islands on wooden sail boats powered by a motor, it is a good break from the main island for half a day. Plus, we get to see the same villages from a different point of view. There are about a dozen boats that arrive at Nea Kameni, the island with the volcanic crater, within a few minutes of each other. After hopping across the other boats and paying an entrance fee, there's a steep climb up to the craters on uneven terrain. The guide shows a few craters and brings the group back down to the waiting boats. The views from here across the Caldera are stunning. The sea looks bluer than ever. Then it is a ride to Paleo Kameni, the island with the hot spring. The boats stop quite a distance away and we have to swim out to the hot spring area. We chose to remain on the boat. After this we are dropped back to Fira port. Some boats continue to Therasia.


The steep hill down to the port at Nea Kameni with Fira in the background.


The hot springs at Palea Kameni


Souvenir and Food





The vegetarian version of the Greek delicacy of Moussaka with eggplant, cheese and pastry sheets.
Miniature houses and blue domed churches for sale as souvenirs



More colorful souvenirs
My last memory of this beautiful island that I hope to return to again, sometime in the future. The most photographed, most popular and the most serene of all blue domed churches, close to where we were staying in Firostefani.



The island of Santorini



Monday, May 4, 2015

Enchanting Switzerland


Lake Buchalpsee



From young I have been watching Bollywood movies, more specifically Yash Chopra's, that show rolling meadows dotted with pretty flowers, snow capped mountains in the background, healthy and cool cows grazing with their Swiss-style cowbells, clean air and cool breeze... Snapping back to reality, you wonder if that is indeed Switzerland or some place in heaven! After having spent just 5 days, I can vouch that it is indeed Switzerland!

Before we embarked on our Swiss adventure, we wanted to take a peek at Germany. Arriving at Basel, Germany was just a hop, skip, jump away. After looking at a few places, we finally decided to visit just one spot in the black forest as we didn't want to miss out much in Switzerland. Looking at both Freiburg and Triberg, I decided upon Triberg because it not only looked like a typical German village but had a large number of stores selling the famed black forest cuckoo clocks!! As a bonus there was also a waterfall!


Triberg im Schwarzwald - German Black Forest

Arriving at Basel airport that had exits for both France and Swiss sides, we picked up our rental car and drove down to Triberg im Schwarzwald passing the beautiful old town of Basel on our way. The scenery and climb up to Triberg was spectacular with black forest styled houses along our route. After parking our car at the car park close to the waterfalls we hiked up to the falls in sweltering afternoon heat. By the time we got to the first view of the falls, we were tired from all the traveling and decided against going further. Further, the option of shopping for a couple of cuckoo clocks was even more lucrative! Traveling downhill, we ended up at the House of 1000 clocks - Haus der 1000 Uhren. 

Cuckoo clocks in Triberg in the Blackforest

This place was absolute wow! It was covered with cuckoo clocks of varying sizes, designs, styles and of course prices. Even with a budget it wasn't easy to pick a couple. After much walking around and bothering the English speaking sales assistants with my constant flow of questions we finally found two to our liking and had them packed. Our next stop was at a cafe.. how could we leave the area without a spoonful, and a little more of the famous black forest cake? After biting into a slice of rich and heavenly blackforest cake and drowning that with some coffee, we returned to our car for our drive to Zürich.


We drove through the check point at the borders (Switzerland is not part of the EU) and through some Swiss towns with their symbolical church steeples to arrive at Holiday Inn Express Zurich Airport, our halt for the night. Just before the hotel we stopped at the supermarket Migros that was closing to pick up a few staples to keep us going through our trip. Dinner at subway gave us the first shock. About CHF25 for 2 foot-longs (roughly 17GBP)!


Zürich - Lucerne

Grossmünster

After an uncomfortable night in an extremely warm room and a poorly serviced breakfast, we were out on the road again. After a futile attempt to locate Üetliberg for a bird's eye view of Zürich, we drove to the city center to view it from human's POV. We were lucky to find a parking spot near the Fraumünster. Took a short walk around the Limmat river, taking pictures of the various points of interest - The Grossmünster, Rathaus, the quay along the river and few interesting side streets and cafes. We got our first view of snow-capped mountains in the distance and were looking forward to see it closer. After the quick walk around we returned to our car and started our drive towards Lucerne.

KapellbrückeLucerne was a postcard picture city. A sprawling lake with the modern glass KKL on it's shores; connected to the old city by the picturesque Kapellbrücke (Chapel Bridge). Ample parking at the railway station made it easy for us to walk around. Lunch was at the fly-infested railway station. The food wasn't too bad. Shooing away the flies was, unfortunately. We took a walk around the railway station area, photographing the Kapellbrücke and the swans along the lake. After some ice cream and expensive souvenir shopping we returned to our car to start our drive to Lauterbrunnen, the most anticipated destination in this trip.

The sky was overcast and it soon started raining heavily. However the scenery was fantastic. Lovely sights of lakes and waterfalls. After driving along the shores of the Aquamarine Brienzersee, we reached Bernese Oberland. The air had turned much cooler here and there were snow-capped mountains much closer to us. We drove straight to the hotel we had booked for the next two days - Hotel Oberland. It was right along the main road and we had a room on the third floor whose windows opened to the amazing view of the waterfalls and the snow capped peaks of the region. It was a view that kept us enchanted through out our stay and a vision we will never forget for the rest of our lives. Since we had quite a long day, we did not venture out much and instead had a pizza at the restaurant and went to bed early.


Bernese Oberland - Lauterbrunnen - Mürren - Buchalpsee

Stechelberg
The Lauterbrunnen valley at Stechelberg
Day 3 of our trip started with heavy rains again and I was extremely disappointed. What a waste! But to our joy the sky soon cleared up and the sun was out nice and bright. After a good breakfast where no one hurried us, we spoke to the owner of the hotel for ideas. She told us about a fest happening in the village of Mürren and advised us of the route to take. We got into our car with our warm coats and hats and proceeded to Stechelberg to board a cable car up to Mürren.

Mürren
Mürren was a calm and quiet village with gorgeous views of green meadows and the neighboring snow capped peaks. We arrived early enough in the day and there were hardly any tourists around. Even though this was higher up in the mountains it was still warm and we had no use for our coats! We walked to the other end of town clicking away zillions of pictures and marveling at the views around us. With some time left for the fest and parade to start, we spent some time on a playground with the snow capped peaks for company. We soon found ourselves joining a stream of people heading to watch the parade. We found ourselves some spots to watch and the parade started with lots of cheer. There were the famous Swiss cows with their traditional cow bells, other villagers with their handicrafts and many groups dressed in the traditional costumes. We also got some freebies like candies and cheese. After the Parade, we walked down a different route and found a Chinese cafe for lunch. One of the cheaper places to eat, we found the food worthy. We rode the cable car back to Stechelberg and took our car to Trümmelbach falls.

Trümmelbach
Trümmelbach falls is fed from the snow melting from the peaks. An elevator takes us through a shaft carved inside the mountain and leaves us at the head of a trail. It's a climb up from there to various levels. The waterfall flows inside tunnels and sometimes out in the open. There are galleries and platforms to view the waterfalls that thunders and roars down the mountain. We viewed from a couple of different levels before returning as the steps and trail was getting cold and wet higher up. 


We drove and parked our car across from our hotel. Later in the evening we followed a walking trail in Lauterbrunnen to catch glimpses of the train that goes up to Jungfrau, a traditional church and the roaring river flowing from the Trümmelbach falls. Our dinner was at the restaurant - some Swiss Rosti and spaghetti before falling asleep watching the gorgeous views from the window.

Lauterbrunnen at dawn from out our window
Day 4 was again warm and bright and we so badly wanted to see an alpine lake. We again asked the owner for some suggestions and she suggested Buchalpsee. After some discussions, we decided to go ahead and do the 3 hours rouhd trip hike. We drove to Grindelwald, parked our car and took the gondola up to First. When I was planning for our stay in the region, I looked at both Grindelwald and Lauterbrunner. There were many who recommended Grindelwald. I chose Lauterbrunnen for the small town feel and I must say I was not disappointed and in fact was hugely relieved that we stayed there instead of Grindelwald. Grindelwald was a busy Swiss town with loads of tourists, cafes and traffic. 

The ride up to First was again with enchanting views. We had picked up some sandwiches, salad and water from a Co-op store in Lauterbrunnen. Even though it was a good 30+ minute ride, the sun was beating down and it was pretty hot even up at that altitude. We got off at First and started our hike amidst even more enchanting scenery. We encountered some cows with their dangling and jingling cowbells up close and continued our hike with three snow capped peaks of Wetterhorn, Schreckhorn and Eiger keeping us company through out. We reached the twin lakes of Buchalpsee about an hour and 45 minutes later and settled down in a scenic spot. We were quite hungry by then and the food from Co-op made up for a good picnic lunch and were gone in a jiffy. After a ton of pics, dipping our feet in the cold waters of the lake and noticing that there were not many around us, we started our return hike. It was quicker this time and we reached Grindelwald just over a couple of hours later.

Lake Buchalpsee

After our hike to Buchalpsee, we felt we had achieved the purpose of the visit. There seemed to be nothing left for us to see or do. We still to stick to our initial plan of visiting Geneva as we were flying back home from there. We drove through a hail storm along the shores of Lake Thun to reach Hôtel La Tour d'Aï at Leysin pretty late in the night and all the cafes and restaurants were closed. After a quick dinner of some ready-to-eat stuff, we tucked in for the night, tired, but content.


Geneva

Jet D'Eau
After an interesting breakfast, we were all set to spend our last day at Switzerland. We started our drive along the shores of Lake Geneva and reached Geneva airport a little past 11 in the afternoon. We returned our car, had a quick lunch at the airport station, checked our bags into a locker and took a crowded and warm train to the city. It was an extremely warm and humid day and we were highly uncomfortable by the time we reached the lake from the station. There was a gallery like set up along the shore of the lake and we were happy to rest under the shade watching the Jet D'Eau and the people hurrying across. After a long break, we walked around the few streets surrounding the lake. After the excitement at Bernese Oberland and the Jungfrau region, Geneva did not excite us much. It seemed to be just like any other European city.

Clouds were closing in and a storm seemed to be brewing up. It was pretty cool by this time and we started our walk back to the station to board the train to the airport.

We bid good bye to Switzerland, an expensive heaven on earth, and boarded our EasyJet flight back home.

The Bernese Oberland was nature at it's best and I'm hoping to return someday.